Pattern - Matching Set (Women's wear)

This pattern consists of a pants and top.

I have chosen to make a straight leg pants with a flare knee height top. Should you wish to alter your pants / top to make it wider / narrow or longer/shorter in length, please feel free to do so. If you are a beginner and not sure how, I would like to encourage you go back to your basic block garments and tailor from there,

What do I need to create this garment?

• Block Bodice + desired length

• Block Pants + desired style

• Block Sleeve + length

• Waist measurement + 20 cm - this is for your belt

• Desired material ( I purchased 5 meters of material for the entire project and had quite a bit left over - I'm between a size 32 - 34 | Type of material I would recommend is that of a light weight airy feel such as barbie, viscose, crepe, casablanca etc)

• Matching thread

• Elastic for the waist which will be inserted into the pants ( thickness is up to you)

• Material scissors

• Plenty pins

• Sewing machine

• Overlocker (optional)

Creating the garment

Part one - The top & belt

Should you wish to use your bodice at its current length skip this step

This is where you will draw out your new bodice with the desired length. If you are not sure where to add length pin your block bodice onto tracing paper (big enough to cover the desired size) From the size (underneath the armpit hole) you can extend your pattern, see steps and image one below.

1: Place existing block bodice onto tracing paper and secure with pins

2: Using your pencil, draw out your desired width / flare starting from under the arm ( see image 1)

3: Add 1.5cm seam allowance

4: Cut out the pattern and put aside

5: Cut out your belt based off your waist measurement + additional 15 - 20 cm (this will allow you to have enough leeway to tie your belt

6: Cut out bias binding for the neckline

Part Two: The Sleeve

Should you wish to use your sleeve as is then skip this step

1: Lay the block pattern on the tracing paper and pin in place

2: Draw out your block sleeve

3: From the drawing you can alter the length of the sleeve and perhaps even tightness of your sleeve. If you wish to tailor your sleeve for a hugged look measure your arm (around the wrist, elbow and upper arm) and draw out the changes onto your sleeve

4: Add seam allowance 1.5cm

5: cut out and set aside

Part Three: The Pants

This part should be fairly simple as not much of the pants will change based off your block. Should you prefer the fit of the original block pants, then by all means skip this step however, should you wish to alter your pants pipes then follow these steps:

1: Lay the block pants onto the tracing paper and pin

2: Using your pencil you can alter your pants to be wider in the pipes or tighter. To do this you will need to determine how you would like your pants to fall i.e.: take in from the knee/thigh or butt area. I had chosen to do a straight leg I drew out the entire pattern and then altered the new drawing from the thigh all the way to the ankles to reflect the style I desired.

3: Add seam allowance of 1.5 cm

4: cut out and set aside

5: Cut the waist band and set aside

Part Four: Cutting & Sewing

Now that you've created all the pieces you need follow the next steps:

1: Line the drafted patterns onto the material and pin steady before cutting each item out with a material scissors

2: Pants

• Line the front and back parts of the pants then overlock/zigzag the inner and sides together followed by a plain straight stitch on your sewing machine

• Add all darts as per original block pattern

• Then take the waist band sew it together to make a 'o' shape followed by sewing one side of the band to the pants, then add the elastic and fold over the waist band and sew in place. If you wish you could add another straight stitch directly in the center of the waist band to allow the elastic to sit steady - but this is optional of course.

• Last step would be to hem your pants

3: Top, Belt & Sleeves

• Start off by pinning the shoulders and sides of the block together then mark your seam allowance

• Overlock/zigzag according to your seam allowance and thereafter continue with a straight stitch in your sewing machine

• Next take your sleeves fold it on the wrong sides and overlock/zigzag followed with a straight stitch

• Using a pin mark the highest part and center of the sleeve and do the same with the bodice then pair the two together and pin in place thereafter overlock/zigzag and straight stitch in place

• Pin your bias binding to your neckline of the bodice and sew in place - trim all excess material

• Overlock/zigzag and hem the top as per seam allowance

• The last step would be to take your belt fold right sides together, stich the right and left sides followed by stitching the belt closed. Remember to leave about 5-6 cm un-sewed (is this even a word haha) in order to turn your belt onto the right side thereafter stitch the opening close.